The Van Has Gone: A Seasonal Keep-Up Plan for Windows and Doors

Most of the advice you get about windows arrives before you buy: how to compare quotes, which glass to choose, whether the installer is worth the deposit. Then the van pulls away, the silicone cures, and nobody tells you what happens next. That's a shame, because a new window or door is not a fit-and-forget product. It is a moving, sealing, weather-facing bit of kit. A few minutes here and there can keep it feeling new for years — and give you a useful paper trail if something does go wrong.

Start with the bits nobody mentions

Open a window and look at the bottom edge of the frame. You should see small slots or covered holes. These are drainage paths, often called weep holes. They let rainwater out and air in. When they clog with pollen, grit, cobwebs or patio debris, water can sit where it shouldn't. Clear them with a soft brush or a vacuum on low suction. Don't poke them with a screwdriver, and don't seal them up because they look untidy. They are doing a job.

Next, the hinges and locking points. A quick brush-out removes grit. A light application of silicone spray or whatever the manufacturer recommends keeps metal parts moving without turning into a dirt magnet. Avoid sloshing oil around; more lubricant is not better. Check handles and keeps for loose screws, but don't overtighten anything into uPVC or timber. If a screw keeps coming loose, that is worth noting rather than constantly re-tightening.

Seals need less attention than people think. Wipe them with a damp cloth and mild soapy water when you clean the frames. Avoid abrasive cleaners, bleach-heavy sprays and pressure washers aimed at the gaskets. If a seal looks flattened, torn or has pulled away at a corner, take a photo and contact the installer. Don't attack it with sealant as a first move.

A seasonal routine that fits real life

You don't need a toolbox and a clipboard. Think of it as four short checks across the year, plus a two-minute door check now and then.

Spring: after the winter. Wash down frames and glass, clear drainage slots, and look at the seals around opening windows and doors. Check hinges for grit and give them a light clean. Open and close every window fully. If a door has started catching at the top or dragging on the threshold, note it now rather than in December.

Summer: when everything is dry. This is a good time to check locks, handles and any sliding door tracks. Clean tracks with a brush and vacuum, then wipe with a damp cloth. For timber windows and doors, inspect paint or stain. Flaking finish lets water in, and water is the enemy. A small touch-up is far cheaper than a repair.

Autumn: before the storms. Clear drainage slots again, check that outside seals are sitting flat, and make sure door thresholds are clear of leaves and grit. If you have aluminium frames, check the powder-coated finish for chips or scuffs. Small chips can be treated according to the manufacturer's advice. Look at the seals around any external door — that is where driving rain often finds a way in.

Winter: don't force anything. If a handle feels frozen, don't hang off it. Warm the area gently if it is safe to do so, or wait. Check for condensation on the room-side glass, which is usually about indoor moisture and ventilation rather than failed glazing. Condensation between the panes is different: that is a sealed-unit issue, so photograph it and speak to your installer. Keep vents clear if you have them, and don't block trickle vents with curtains or furniture.

uPVC, aluminium and timber are not the same beast

uPVC is low-fuss, but it still needs its drainage paths clear and its hinges clean. Avoid abrasive pads and solvent cleaners on frames. Aluminium is strong and stable, but the finish and fixings deserve a look, especially in coastal areas where salt can build up. Timber rewards routine: check paint or stain, keep water out of joints, and deal with small areas of decay before they spread. For all three, the golden rule is the same — clean gently, lubricate sparingly, and don't force a mechanism that is clearly unhappy.

What's normal wear, and what deserves a call

A faint creak, a slightly stiffer handle after months of use, or a small scuff on a frame is usually normal wear. A window that has started letting in a draught along one edge, a door that no longer lines up with its lock, water pooling in the frame, or mist between the glass panes is worth reporting. So is a hinge that has visibly dropped or a seal that has split. The trick is to describe the symptom clearly and send photos. 'Back door drops on the handle side and catches the frame at the top' is more useful than 'door feels wrong'.

Don't start dismantling hinges or adjusting locking keeps unless you know what you're doing. Modern windows and doors are adjustable, but a quarter-turn in the wrong place can make things worse. If it is still under guarantee, let the installer do the adjusting.

Keep a simple record

This is the boring bit that pays off. Keep your warranty paperwork, the installer's details, the product make and the installation date in one folder — digital or paper. Add a short note each time you clean the drainage slots, lubricate hinges or report an issue. A dated photo on your phone is enough. If your guarantee requires maintenance, this record shows you have done your bit. It also helps when you sell the house and someone asks how old the windows are.

None of this turns you into a window mechanic. It is just a small habit: clear the drainage, check the seals, ease the hinges, and note anything that changes. Do that through the year and your new windows and doors will have a much better chance of staying quiet, weather-tight and easy to use well beyond the point where the installer's van disappears down the road.